The heraldic Coat of Arms of Exeter.

This is a very old plate of Exeter from the St Thomas area looking at the city one can see its importance, yet within a very rural setting once you step outside of its environs. this was from Barley Mow.

Bishops palace at the rear of Exeter cathedral. this plate is drawn from within the grounds of the Palace Gate, which subsequently was a Catholic Convent school which I attended from the age of five.

History of Exeter.  The Romans: The history book of Exeter can be opened in Roman times when in around 50-55AD, the Roman army reached Exeter during the conquest of south western Britain. On a ridge overlooking the River Exe a 42 acre legionary fortress was built becoming the base for the 5000 strong Second Augustan Legion serving as the administrative capital for the Dumnonii of Devon and Cornwall. This fortress stood in a commanding position overlooking the River, being defended on two sides by steep valleys. Timber and clay were used to construct the defences and buildings of the fortress with one exception, the Bath House.

The Bath House which had walls of volcanic stone which was quarried from Rougemont Hill. This was a most impressive building and would have been the modern equivalent of a sports hall. Nothing was known about the bath house until it was excavated in the 1970s by the Exeter Museum Archaeological Field Unit. It was found at around 3 metres below the present surface of the Cathedral Close and was covered by Saxon and Medieval cemeteries. Following the excavation the building was preserved in sand, and it may be possible to re-open the site sometime in the future. The excavated remains are probably among the most impressive of any Roman bath-house in Britain. During 75AD, the legion moved to Caerleon in South Wales and the fortress was abandoned. Then, a few years later, work commenced to convert the site into a civilian town - to be known as Isca Dumnoniorum. This would have included public buildings such as a forum and basilica (town hall), a market place and public baths.

City Walls: The City Walls were built in around 180AD, enclosing some 93 acres, which was a much larger area than the fortress and early town. Today, some two thirds of the city walls remain and, although there have been some repairs over the years, some original Roman masonry can still be identified. There is little evidence today of the Roman grid street pattern - only the northern part of the High Street follows the Roman lines. By the late 4th century the Roman town fell into decline and in the years following the withdrawal of Roman rule in 410AD the town continued to decline in population. By the mid 5th century most of the town was deserted with derelict houses and overgrown wasteland.Saxons:

During the middle of the 7th century the Saxons occupied Exeter and, by the reign of Alfred the Great (871-899AD), town life was experiencing signs of revival once again. During this time the medieval street plan was constructed, High Street and Fore Street provided the backbone where markets were held. Many of the streets would have been very narrow and today examples such as Gandy Street and Martins Lane can still be seen as an example of this era. During the late 9th century the streets would have been divided into tenement plots.

William the Conqueror: By the 11th Century Exeter was known to be a ‘wealthy and ancient city - strongly fortified’. This, together with its reputation as being an important Anglo-Saxon city, made it the target for invasion. In 1068 William the Conqueror made an attack on the city and some 18 days later he broke through the walls and took charge. Along with promises that the city’s prosperous image would not be harmed, or that taxes would not be increased, William the Conqueror appointed a Norman seigneur (Feudal Lord) to construct a castle. This was built on a natural hill of volcanic rock in the northern corner of the walled town. The remains of the castle, which really only consist of the unique early Norman gatehouse surrounded by a large ditch, can be seen today in Rougemont Park. In 1066 Exeter had a population of approximately 2,500 people and 460 houses. It was a prosperous trading and manufacturing area and both local people and foreign merchants would have visited its markets.Churches & Cathedral: In common with many prosperous towns in late Saxon and early Norman times, Exeter had many small churches and by 1086 there were 29. Although many have since been demolished, today St Olaves, St Stephens and St Martins, which have been altered over the years, retain some of the features relevant to the period of 1086.

http://www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk/

In 1114 construction started on the Norman cathedral. There had been a church on the site since 932AD and in 1050AD the church was granted cathedral status and Leofric was the first Bishop of Exeter. The Norman cathedral was built in place of the original church. An unusual feature was the two transept towers, which was unique in the design of cathedrals at that time. These are the only original part remaining today. Rebuilding commenced on the cathedral during the 13th Century and was completed in the 14th century. The medieval figure sculptures created in the 14th century are probably the finest in England. The carvings are very well preserved and the upper row of figures of Christ and the twelve apostles were added in around 1460. The cathedral has the longest unbroken stretch of Gothic stone vaulting in the world.

Lammas Fair: The annual celebration of Lammas Fair dates back more than 900 years. The word ‘Lammas’ - from the Anglo-Saxon Hlafmaesse or Loaf Mass, commemorates the festival of St Peter and on 1st August, the first fruits of the harvest were offered to the church in the form of a loaf of bread. Originally the Lammas Fair would have begun at noon on 31 July but this has changed in recent years. By 1485 Exeter had seven fairs. The Fair was a great occasion and was always opened with a Proclamation declaring how long the event would last - normally three days. During this period would be a Saint’s day or religious festival. The Lammas Fair ‘White glove’, a large, leather, stuffed glove attached to a pole and decorated with garlands of flowers, would be on display throughout the fair and was a symbol of Royal protection of the peace. It is currently in the custody of the Setter family of Exeter who lend it to the City each year. Prior to the hoisting of the glove a Proclamation would be made declaring the fair open.

LAMMAS, n. Also -mass; and obs. forms lambes, -as, -mes, -mass. [ˈlɑməs]     1. The 1st of August, orig. a harvest festival for the consecration of the new bread and common in Eng. till the early 18th c. The word survives in Eng. mainly in certain combs. but is still current in Scot. where Lammas is one of the quarter-days. Used attrib. as in Lammas day, — night, etc. and fig. See also combs.

Lammas FairThe history & background of the Lammas FairEach year, the City of Exeter upholds the tradition of celebrating the Lammas Fair, the annual ceremony of the Proclamation of Lammas Fair dates back to before the Norman Conquest, more than 900 years ago.

The word Lammas derives from the Anglo-Saxon Hlafmaesse or Loaf Mass.  Lammas Day, the festival of St Peter ad vincula, was when the first fruits of the harvest were offered to the Church in the form of a loaf.

The franchise of a fair was a very valuable possession, giving exclusive right to tolls on all articles sold.  The fair generally lasted for 3 days.

The Lammas Fair White Glove was displayed during the Fair and was a sign of Royal protection of the peace.  The large leather, stuffed glove was attached to a long pole and was decorated with ribbons and a garland of flowers.  Prior to the hoisting of the Glove, a Proclamation was made to declare the Fair open.  The Proclamation was issued at the time of Edward III in 1330.

A Court known as the "Pie Powder Court" was appointed for every fair to deal with any complaint or other matter arising within the Fair.

Many towns in England still retain their ancient fairs but in most places the reading of the Proclamation and the hoisting of the Glove have been abandoned.  Some of the fairs have survived chiefly as pleasure fairs, but most of them are purely agricultural.

Some time in the 1860's the last stalls disappeared but the City was anxious to uphold its ancient customs and has continued to proclaim the Fair and host the Glove as it has done for nine centuries.

In the present celebration of Lammas Fair in Exeter, the Lord Mayor travels from the Civic Centre in the former Sheriff's Coach with a procession of school children from Bradley Rowe First School, St Sidwell's C of E School and Exeter Cathedral Pre-Prep School and a band from John Stocker Middle School.

Riding in the coach are two children specially selected from the schools, together with The Right Worshipful the Lord Mayor, The Deputy Lord Mayor 2006/7 and Chief Executive of the Council.

A Mace Sergeant carrying the Lammas Glove at the end of a long festive pole, leads the procession with the children, band and coach following. They process down the High Street and stop at Guildhall.

There is a brief ceremony when the Lord Mayor reads a Lammas Fair Proclamation – a derivation of the Proclamation introduced in 1330.  The Lammas Glove is then hoisted above Guildhall where it stays for three days and the children cheer heartily.

The Lord Mayor then travels in the coach to Cathedral Green where she opens the Exeter Festival Craft Fair, and the children enjoy an ice cream on Cathedral Green.

The City of Exeter is proud to maintain this colourful and ancient tradition.

The text of this proclamation, issued at the time of Edward III in 1330, is used to this day. Many places in England still enjoy medieval style fairs, but Exeter is unique in that the ceremony of the glove still takes place. The location of the fairs has changed over the years, originally it took place at Southernhay or Crollditch as it was then called and then on to St David’s Down. With the exception of the time of the plague in the 17th century and the First and Second World War years, the ceremony has always taken place annually. Nowadays the mayor departs from the Civic Centre in the former Sheriff’s Coach together with a procession of school children and a band. They proceed to the Guildhall with a bearer leading the way carrying the Llamas Fair Glove. On arrival at the Guildhall the Mayor reads the proclamation and the glove is then hoisted on to the Guildhall verandah.Middle Ages: During the Middle Ages over one third of the land inside the city walls was owned by the Church. There were 32 parish churches, 7 monasteries, several chapels and hospitals as well as the cathedral. In early Tudor times the parish churches were nearly all rebuilt using the local red sandstone: this style is known as the Perpendicular Gothic. By the 14th Century Exeter’s population totalled 3,000 and there were extensive suburbs outside the wall. A number of buildings survived from this time but the houses of the poor, built in cob or timber, disappeared long ago.

The best remaining examples of these houses are on West Street and “The House That Moved” - a house which was transported on rollers to another area of the town to make way for the inner by-pass. This dwelling was a tradesman’s house, and would have consisted of a shop on the ground floor, a small hall on the first floor and a second floor chamber with a loft above.

Prosperity: In the first part of the 16th Century, Exeter was one of the biggest and richest towns in England, this being mainly due to the Devon woollen industry. The cloth would have been woven in rural Devon, dyed and finished in Exeter and exported to France, Spain and the Netherlands. In 1564 a quay was constructed and at the same time the Exeter canal was built to link the city with the sea. The wealthy merchants were dominating city life and some of this wealth is seen in the fine stonework that was added to the Guildhall in 1593 at a cost of £782! Many of the buildings in the High Street would have been built in a similar style but unfortunately at later times different facades have been added. The Church, who had enjoyed such a high profile in former times was, by the 1530s, less dominant. Henry VIII dissolved the city’s monasteries and various rebellions and uprisings were taking place, mainly unsuccessfully. Exeter’s wealth meant that it was able to contribute a large sum of money towards the fleet that defeated the Spanish Armada. In recognition of the gift,

Queen Elizabeth I gave the motto of Semper Fidelis (Ever Faithful) to the city.The English Civil War: Exeter was Parliamentarian during the Civil War, until 1643, when it was taken by the Royalists, who declared it their headquarters in the West. The city was again attacked in 1645-46 finally submitting to the Parliamentarians. It remained in military hands until the Restoration of the Monarchy in 1660. The city recovered from the Civil War and once again entered its most prosperous age with its cloth trade. A description of Exeter in 1698 stated that the whole town, and for twenty miles around it, was employed in spinning, weaving, dressing, scouring and drying the serges. Exeter made more money in a week than anywhere else in England.Thriving Community: During the 18th Century Exeter changed considerably. At a time when the rest of England was in decline, the climate, amenities and scenery of Exeter attracted wealthy families from all over the country. As a result, Exeter had a considerable middle class population with substantial incomes to invest. Soon, the city was developing into an administrative, financial and distribution centre and the first of several banks were established. The city walls were no longer required for defence purposes and many desirable Georgian terraces and crescents were built outside the walls. New amenities such as a hospital, city baths and assembly rooms were constructed.

The Assembly Rooms, in Cathedral Close, was the first inn to be called a hotel in England - called The Royal Clarence Hotel. The Law Courts were constructed in 1774.

Transport Links: Upgrading of the transport system led to the demolition of the city gates and a new- -Exe Bridge was opened in 1778, and meant that the city walls had to be cut to make a direct approach to the bridge. The roads greatly improved under the General Turnpike Act of 1753 and as a result the city became filled with coaches from London, Bristol and towns in Devon and Cornwall. In 1658 a journey to London would have taken four days, but a hundred years later it took just two days.

remnants of bridge today.

By the autumn of 1785 the first mail coaches made the trip in only twenty four hours. However, local journeys were more leisurely. In 1778 a journey from Exeter to Barnstaple would have taken eight hours and Bristol would be a whole day’s journey away. Due to the increased traffic the ancient gates were demolished including, probably, the most impressive gateway in England - the South Gate.Downward Trends and New Beginnings: By the beginning of the 19th Century Exeter’s national importance declined. In 1800 it had dropped to fourteenth in size among provincial towns and by 1860 it was fortieth. However, during this time the population increased from approximately 20,000 to 50,000. Exeter turned to the development of engineering, iron founding, paper making and the printing industries. The canal was extended in 1825 and a new basin was opened in 1830, but when the railways reached Exeter in the 1840s the canals suffered a decline.

The first train of the Great Western Railway arrived at St David’s Station (from Paddington) on 1st May 1844.Second World War: On 4th May 1942 the German radio stations announced ‘We have chosen as targets the most beautiful places in England, Exeter was a jewel and we have destroyed it’. As a result the City was almost devastated. Some 400 shops, 150 offices, 50 warehouses and stores, 36 clubs and pubs - to mention just some of the casualties - were destroyed, though fortunately, the Cathedral did not suffer any major damage.Regeneration:

A redevelopment package designed by Thomas Sharp, which was published as a book ‘The Exeter Phoenix’, was created for the reconstruction of the city. Rebuilding did not start until a considerable time after the war. Not all the proposals were instigated but a significant one was the building of the Princesshay shopping precinct, one of the first of its kind in the country.  Nowadays, if you visit Exeter, you will find a city full of vibrant charm. It is a mixture of ancient and modern, famous for its mild climate and natural beauty. Exeter has a friendly “buzz” about it from the student life at the University. It is known as “the City in the Country” because the surrounding countryside can be seen from all areas of the City.                            Sources: Exeter City Council-History of Exeter. England - The Rough Guide by Robert Andrews, Jules Brown, Phil Lee and Rob Humphreys. Encyclopaedia Britannica. 

PLACES OF INTEREST AND IMPORTANCE TO VISIT.

CATHEDRAL CLOSE:
Many styles of English architecture are represented in the Close. The most interesting examples are Mol's Coffee House, a striking Elizabethan timber-framed building that contains 16th century oak panelling and carvings; the Royal Clarence Hotel, which was the first inn in England to be called an 'hotel'; and the Bishop of Crediton's House. The remains of a Roman bath-house and basilica were discovered opposite the West Front of the Cathedral when the church of St. Mary Major was demolished in 1971. The remains were covered over  to preserve them. The Bishop's Palace Garden and the Exploring Cathedral Close walking tours are a good way to learn about this area of Exeter. See the Walking Tours section for more details.

CITY WALL:
The city wall was built during the 2nd century AD to help defend the city, and although it has been patched and rebuilt over the centuries, the wall is still essentially Roman. About two-thirds of the old Roman wall still remains. A free City Wall Tour lasting about 2 hours is available with the Redcoat Guides. See the Walking Tours section for more details.

CUSTOM HOUSE:
The Quay, Exeter.
Dating from 1681, this is one of the earliest brick buildings in Exeter, and probably the first purpose built custom house in Britain. The cannons were part of a shipment that never reached its destination _ they have never been fired.

circa 1300

EXETER CASTLE:
Built in 1068 on the orders of William the Conqueror. The County Court, built for the assizes in 1774, now occupies the inner bailey of the castle. Not open to the public.

GUILDHALL:
High Street, Exeter.  Tel: 01392 265500.
The Guildhall is possibly the oldest surviving municipal building in the country and is still used for council meetings today. The roof is a fine example of 15th century carpentry  and the front portico, which dominates the High Street, was built in 1595. The civic silver and official regalia are usually on display.
Open to the public subject to civic functions from Monday to Friday 10.30am-1pm and 2pm-4pm, and Saturday 10am-12.30pm (it is recommended to telephone ahead of your visit). Admission free.

THE HOUSE THAT MOVED:  (for a photo see above.)
West Street, Exeter.
An attractive Tudor building that was moved on wheels in 1961 from Edmund Street to its present site next to the remains of the West Gate, to make way for a new road. It is now a shop.

MEDIEVAL EXE BRIDGE:
The medieval Exe Bridge was constructed around 1200AD and is regarded as one of the earliest long stone bridges in England. About half of it can still be seen along with the remains of St. Edmund's Church which forms part of the bridge. There was another church at the other end which was destroyed by floods in the 15th century.

The bridge was originally about 600 feet long with 18 arches. It has been replaced three times, most recently by the two Exe Bridges, and the change in their positions has allowed half of the medieval bridge to be uncovered.

THE QUAY:
Exeter became a thriving port until a weir was built across the river. Trading, mainly in wool, increased again after the building of Britain's first ship canal in 1563.

There is a lot to see and enjoy on the Quay, including antiques and craft shops, pubs and cafes, and the Visitor Centre. The manually operated Butts Ferry crosses  the river between the Quay and the opposite bank. A walking tour of the Quay is available - see the Walking Tours section for more details.

QUAY HOUSE VISITOR CENTRE:
The Quay, Exeter. Tel: 01392 265213.
Open daily 10am-5pm Easter to October.
Housed in a seventeenth century warehouse, the Visitor Centre has displays on the history of the River Exe. An enjoyable audio-visual presentation,

"A Celebration of Exeter" describes the 2000 year history of the city, and the importance of the river to its commercial development. Free admission.

ROUGEMONT GARDENS is well worth a visit in fine weather, with its beautifully manicured lawns and borders. The earthworks and gatehouse of the castle, and parts of the city wall, can still be seen.

ROYAL ALBERT MEMORIAL MUSEUM AND ART GALLERY:
Queen Street, Exeter. Tel: 01392 265858.

A marvellous traditional museum housed in an imposing Victorian building. The museum tells the story of Exeter from prehistory to modern times, through fascinating  and imaginative displays. Permanent exhibitions include natural history, clocks and watches, silver and glassware, and objects and artefacts from all over the world.
 The art gallery features paintings mainly by Devon artists. From 19th June 1999 the World Cultures Galleries will be open. There is a varied programme of special and t

temporary exhibitions and workshops, and an excellent gift and souvenir shop.
Open Monday to Saturday 10am-5pm, and Sunday 2pm-4pm (from June 20th 1999). Admission is free. Wheelchair access by prior arrangement.

SHIP INN:
Martin's Lane, Exeter.
A sixteenth century inn that Sir Francis Drake is said to have patronised.

SOUTHERNHAY was originally the venue for fairs and festivals. The Lammas Fair is still held in July. This is a beautiful and very elegant street with rows of houses on either  side of a central garden.

ST. MARY STEPS CHURCH:
West Street, Exeter.
This church was founded in the 12th century and rebuilt in the 15th century. Inside there is a Norman font. The attractive Matthew the Miller clock, c.1620, on the outside of the tower has figures that strike the hour.

ST. NICHOLAS PRIORY:
The Mint, off Fore Street, Exeter. Tel: 01392 265858.
Founded as a Benedictine Monastery in 1087. It later became an Elizabethan merchant's house and is furnished as it would have been at that time. You can see the Norman undercroft and kitchen, the Tudor Room, and the guest hall. Various temporary exhibitions are held here. Open from Easter to October, Monday, Wednesday and Saturday 2.30pm-4.30pm.

Admission is free during 1999.

TUCKERS HALL:
Fore Street, Exeter. Tel: 01392 436244.
Built in 1471, it has some very fine oak panelling. The front was rebuilt in 1905. It is still the home and meeting place of Exeter's most ancient Guild, the Company of Weavers,

 Fullers and Shearmen. A free 90-minute Forgotten Exeter Tour includes a visit to Tucker's Hall. See Walking Tours for more details.
Open from June to September on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays 10.30am-12.30pm, and October to May on Thursdays only 10.30am-12.30pm. Admission free.

UNDERGROUND PASSAGES:
Romangate Passage, Exeter. Tel: 01392 265887.
The only ancient city passages open to the public in Britain. 
These conduits or aqueducts were built in the middle ages to bring a continuous supply of clean water into the city from springs about a mile away. Your visit begins with  a video presentation in the exhibition area, followed by the interesting and entertaining tour along three-quarters of a mile of the passages. The tour lasts about 40 minutes.
Open from July to September and in school holidays, Monday to Saturday 10am-5.30pm (last tour 4.30pm), and during the rest of the year, Tuesday to Friday 2pm-5.30pm, Saturday 10am-5.30pm (last tour 4.30pm). Admission charge. Because of the nature of the passages there is no wheelchair access.

WYNARD'S ALMSHOUSES was built in 1436 and restored in 1863. It provided housing for twelve pensioners. There are panoramic views over Exeter, and the courtyard
is open to visitors during the day.

OTHER PLACES TO VISIT:

Don't miss Stepcote Hill with its 15th century merchants' houses,

the Clocktower in Queen Street, and the tiny St Pancras Church in the Guildhall Shopping Centre.
A colourful mural in New Bridge Street depicts the festival of 1979.

 

For further information about Exeter, including a free visitor pack, please contact the Exeter Tourist Information Centre.